Saturday, August 2, 2014

Hooking Up the ACO's PVC Clamping Drain (#93871) to NobleSeal CIS Waterproofing

Yesterday I installed my primary waterproofing for a new ACO shower drain.  This is a large barrier free shower that has a tub installed in the wet room.  There are many variables to this shower build but one constant is the use of NobleSeal CIS to waterproof this shower.

So how do you use NobleSeal CIS to hook up to ACO's White PVC Clamping Drain?  Here is a peak at what I did yesterday.

What's all ready done;

  • The ACO primary shower drain (White Clamping Drain) is tied into the homes plumbing system.
  • The area around the drain is blocked off for added support.
  • The P-Trap is checked to make sure it is not below the floor joists.
  • The Pre-Slope (1/4" per foot is installed)
  • The Pre-Slope layer has been flat trowelled
  • Pre-slope is diamond blocked and vacummed - then washed and let to dry
Those are some basics which I have talked about before in my blog posts.  So the next step is to tie in the NobleSeal CIS to the drain.  To do this I work out the rough cut for the membrane.  For this shower I plan on tying in the wall waterproofing (this job will see Ardex 8+9 used) at 5" above the shower floor.  This is over 2" higher than the dry side of the bathroom.

Because of this I add 10" to my measurement of the shower area.  I then bring the sheet into the shower (at this point the top collar and bolts are removed).  I position the membrane and pre-crease the corners.

Then I feel for the drain opening and cut the opening out.


This is the top ring or collar for the ACO shower drain.  Part Number 93871.  Look at the ring.  See how it has no grooves in this side.  Look at the photo below.  It has grooves.  The groove side goes down.  However when I install this drain I first install the groovless side down for a better smother clamping pressure.


Above you see the grooves (four of them) running to the weep holes.  I feel that when set with the NobleSealant 150 these weep channels are rendered less effective than if you first set the top the other way around.



My membrane here (blue stuff - NobleSeal CIS) is cut to allow the bolts to pop through.  The test plug is there to prevent anything from falling into the drain line.

I then use three beads of NobleSealant 150.  It's a lot.  It can ouuze out.  Look close you will see I added some duct tape to protect the inside of the drain from any ouuze out once the top collar is positioned and clamped down.



The NobleSeal CIS gets installed back down.  I gently press the membrane into the NobleSealant 150 working the product from the center out.  Not the other way around.  When it is set well the plastic covers over to prevent any sealant from bonding the top collar to the lower one or the NobleSeal CIS.


With the plastic in position I then add the top collar and tighten the bolts in a 1, 3, 2, 4 pattern.  So you tighten one - then skip one - tighten the opposite side.  Go back to the one you skipped and then tighten the last bolt.  1, 3, 2, 4.




Once tightened I then wrap up the sides to protect me from NobleSealant 150 ooze.  Notice as well I cut the center out of the plastic.  This allows more air to the sealant and aids in the curing.  The collar is keep like this for 1-2 days and then the collar is removed.  The excessive ouzze out is cut back and the collar is then replaced the right way round.  That is with the groove side down.

I do this added step because the weep channels can be reduced in thickness by the sealant.  When done in two steps the weep channel is kept to it's maximum.